Hallo ! I said Hallo !
Lying on the wet sand along the water, I open my eyes ...
Lying on the wet sand along the water, I open my eyes. The glide of a screaming seagull cut the blue sky. I blink carefully eyelids, used to their misdeeds, less dangerous but more common than falling coconuts.
I am slowly recovering, the muscles still drowsy with a well-deserved nap, after two hours of session in the ocean still sore from my path. The horizon and the sea are still there. I push my look behind the rows of waves aligned, the most rebels are seeking to cover my feet to let me know it's time to go back to the water.
I have a sudden thought, laden with emotion and a little ashamed, but quickly suppressed. A fleeting vision of people behind their desks, others squirming in their car seat between two red lights, or some others who look beyond their window and try to smell the scent of iodized sea, beyond the buildings reef and the undulating currents of vehicles that depart slow motion to an unlikely low tide.
I hunt quickly these unbearable images and straightens to stretch myself with laziness. A yawn and a sip of mint tea later, I feel I'm ready for a second session of surfing. But the ugly thought appears again. Annoyed, I jumped in the shorebreak, sure that a good set on my head will definitely chase it all from my mind. I'm halfway from the shore and I turn around. On the edge, I saw fishermen standing on their legs, their nice rod stands as a sign to wait for a new take, a mad dog snorts, runs zigzag, his distant barking are worn by earth wind. I finally park at the peak of the wave, after greeting three surfers who are the only crowd on the spot.
And again these images appear in my mind, like a radar signal traveling from one hemisphere to the other.
The series is up, I paddle inside the other surfers which are too close to the channel ; it's time. A quick drop, the wind is light, I make some good turns, then a long section of slips under a hard acceleration and launch an off the lip, beyond the sky.
I am a dead leaf appreciating the time of it's fall, and the contact of the fresh water in which I sink a calculated dip. 4 seconds under water, I go back to the surface, breathing out of my lungs and then I understand at this time why these thoughts occupy my mind since I woke on the sand, and what they seek to serve me : I have to share, you have to share, we have to share, you have to share these moments of happiness.
I am a sea runner and I know other surfers, at the same time share the same precious moments in another hemisphere, in the early morning or at sunset. The perpetual cycle of the ocean and crashing waves from Australia to California, Jeffrey's Bay in Hossegor, from Bali to the Sea of Japan symbolizes the family of ocean runners, each of which shares a unique pleasure : surfing.
Describing these unique sensations in its everyday decor or away from home helps open and sharing, and does not lock us into a tribe.
Tell us your sessions, the most surprising or simplest, the most engaging. Tale your most improbable trips, your most amazing vacation. These images are in your mind, your drawers or hard drives and should not remain buried or preserved as relics. Share them.
Remember that reading these stories will awaken the talent of other waves runners, as they will appeal to surfing trip beginners.
Working for several years in tourism in France and abroad, Jean-Hervé Cristol (aka Jean Révé) also has a large number of kilometer mark traveling around Planet Surf in search of endless summer waves.
In 2004 he created Destination Surf, the first agency specialized in Surf Travel , then Endless Summer a blog with tips, info and travel stories, in order to enjoy and share this rewarding experience with all surf travelers. → Learn more